2017 Domaine Rougeot Père et Fils Volnay-Santenots Premier Cru
This is Rougeot’s most structured, powerhouse wine that will age gracefully for decades. This wine spent 18 months in barrel (35% new). Produced using organic/biodynamic farming practices, hand-harvested, native yeast fermentation, no added sulfur, and bottled unfined / unfiltered.
Volnay ‘Les Santenots’ is technically located in the village of Meursault, though vignerons discovered long ago that there is a larger demand for Volnay than Meursault Rouge and wisely arranged to label reds from their northernmost vineyards as Volnay.
Pierre-Henri Rougeot has been quietly producing some of Burgundy’s most enticing, low-intervention wines since 2010. Upon returning to his family’s domaine—an 18th century stone cellar originally built for the Hospices de Beaune (and purchased by his great-great-grandfather in the 19th century)—Pierre-Henri has taken an organic approach to farming and implemented a natural style of vinification in the cellar.
Today, the Rougeot holdings span 13 hectares of vines in and around Meursault. Although greatly influenced by Burgundian tradition, Pierre-Henri’s worldly experience has pushed him to craft soft, energetic vins natures that are shaking up the region’s scene in the most profound way. All of Pierre-Henri’s wines are vinified sans soufre, and each barrel is tasted regularly throughout élevage. Small amounts of SO2 are added when needed to individual barrels. When possible, Rougeot keeps each barrel completely sans soufre and bottles it under the alternate diagonal stripe label, though these quantities are always very limited for the village and premier cru wines.
Each cuvée produced from Pierre-Henri’s hands, from Aligoté and Passetoutgrain through his prestigious premiers crus, is bottled as a single-vineyard designation. The wines are energetic, tasty, and wildly complex. It’s surprising that the domaine has maintained such an under-the-radar profile while producing such thought-provoking wines. We recommend getting in while you can.
Pierre-Henri’s experience travelling throughout France gives him a unique vision that hews strongly to Burgundian tradition with a soft touch inspired by the vins natures made by his friends in Saumur, Cahors, and beyond. Today, the Rougeot vineyards are farmed organically, and Pierre-Henri’s no sulfur vinification effortlessly balances a natural wine approach with traditional Burgundian technique to create wines with energy and balance. Each terroir from Aligoté and Passetoutgrain through Premier Crus is bottled as a single-vineyard designate. The wines are energetic, precise, and delicious. It’s simply astounding that the domaine has maintained a quiet profile while producing such compelling wines. It will be even more astounding if that continues.