‘Gaux-To Lisbon, Portugal

‘Gaux-To Lisbon: Our Travel Guide to Portugal’s Coastal Capital City

Whether strolling through cities, checking out coastal surf towns, or exploring lush wine-growing regions is your idea of a dream vacation, one thing’s for sure: no matter what you fancy, you can do it all in Portugal. Although small, the country’s diverse topography and array of microclimates create endless holiday opportunities. This month, we’re highlighting the capital city of Lisbon, which is also home to one of the country’s most important winemaking scenes.

The Bigger Picture:

Portugal’s capital city, Lisbon, is located in the overarching Lisboa area, which is also one of the country’s most historic winemaking regions. The area is broken down into nine sub-regions, though its best-quality vineyards are located north and west of the city. Geographically speaking, Lisbon’s oceanside location, as well as the topographical presence of the Serra de Montejunto hills, help create a moderate climate, as well as provide optimal conditions for growing grapes.

More than 30 different grape varieties are planted in Lisboa, including a mix of native and international varieties. The area produces red, white, and rosé wines, the former of which are most commonly based on the Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz varieties. Contrary to its fuller-bodied reds, white wines from Lisboa are salty, mineral-driven, and refreshing. Lisboa is home to a number of small growers and family-owned wineries, as well as a handful of larger cooperatives.

How to Get There / Get Around:

Getting to Lisbon is easier than ever, as the city’s airport is a major hub for both international and domestic / Europe-based flights. (We recommend checking out TAP Portugal, as they often have great deals.) Once in Lisbon, the city’s public transportation is quite reliable, however, Uber and Bolt offer super cheap car service options, too.

Our Favorite Restaurants:

• O Magano – Located in the Campo de Ourique neighborhood – this is Alyssa’s favorite restaurant for traditional food! One of the best services in Lisbon, yet the environment remains relaxed.
• A Cevicheria – Located in the Príncipe Real neighborhood, this is a great spot if you need a break from Portuguese food. Expect Peruvian-inspired cuisine and top-notch pisco sours, plus great live music. No reservations, plan to wait in line (with a drink in hand) – it’s worth it.
• Cervejaria Ramiro – Iconic seafood restaurant in Rua Almirante Reis. This traditional spot has been open for more than 50 years. No reservations, but you can wait inside with a beer and small snack. Tables open up quickly, but booking is strongly recommended.
• Taberna da Rua das Flores – Solid tapas spot. Located just off the Praça Luís de Camões square. The mastermind behind is André Magalhães. The idea is to share a number of petiscos (tapas). No reservations and cash only, but it’s still well worth any waiting time to get a table.
• Alma – Excellent 2-star Michelin restaurant for those looking for something upscale
• Indanoite é uma criança – Traditional Fado music and Prego de Lombo (famous beef sandwich)
• Suba – Thoughtful / upscale Portuguese fare with great views of the Tagus River
• Re’Tasco – Natural wines and seasonal food, situated in Lisbon’s Mouraria neighborhood
• Gleba is a bakery that makes an excellent range of sourdough breads and now has several outlets, including in the neighbourhoods of Alcântara, Amoreiras and Campo de Ourique.
• Corrupio – A great place for lunch in the vibrant Cais do Sodré district near the Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira), is a small and informal restaurant which opened in September 2022.
• Ibo – Cais do Sodré district, Ibo is a long-established and elegant restaurant with magical views over the Tagus.
• Atira-te ao Rio – The perfect spot for lunch. Outside seating and by the water’s edge. The cuisine is Portuguese with some international touches and the wine list is reasonably priced.
• Antiga Camponesa – André Magalhães’ new venture opened in autumn 2022. More spacious and stylish restaurant with 15 tables offering a more traditional format – starters, main course and dessert. Wine offering is more extensive. Reservations and credit cards are accepted.
• Bahr – The upmarket Bairro Alto Hotel on the Praça Luís de Camões square in central Lisbon. Open from breakfast through to dinner, BAHR is its elegant and stylish restaurant serving Portuguese cuisine in an international style. Just adjacent to the restaurant is a rooftop terrace bar with spectacular views over the lower part of Lisbon and the Tagus – great for an aperitif or digestif.
• A Praça – Situated in the district of Beato, this is an informal food and wine space, and is both a restaurant and retail outlet. There are cheese and charcuterie boards to share, plus very good petiscos.
• Kabuki – Kabuki Lisbon is in the renovated Ritz Galleries overlooking Edward VII Park. It opened in late 2021, was awarded a Michelin Star within a year, and offers high-end, exquisite Japanese food matched by a remarkable wine list put together by wine director Filipe Wang.
• Ruvida – A friendly Italian restaurant in Alcântara run by Valentina from Bologna and her partner Michel.Valentina’s homemade pasta is very special, the cooking inventive and the wine list features both Portuguese and Italian wines. Valentina and Michel recently opened Pausa & Crescente, a wine bar/café also in Alcântara but closer to the Tagus. Booking is advised.

Unmissable Wine & Cocktail Bars:

Let’s be real – in addition to top food offerings, our team is after equally great wine and cocktail options when traveling. After much hard work (hey, someone’s gotta do the taste testing!) these are the spots that stole our hearts:

• Garrafeira Alfaia – Small wine bar in Bairro Alto, very casual and relaxed. Good by the glass selection, even better food, more Portuguese “tapas” style
• Java – Great bar down by the water, amazing rooftop views, affordable BTG pours
• Foxtrot – Stunning cocktail bar featuring classics and originals in an art deco space
• Ladidadi – Solid wine shop featuring low-intervention producers, great for grabbing a glass on site or bottle to go
• Cinco Lounge – Great cocktail bar with innovative, fancy cocktails and a super nice team
• Farès – Well-made cocktails and delicious, Middle Eastern-inspired bites
• Tati – Excellent wine bar by Barcelona expat focused on organic and natural wines
• Black Sheep – Small wine bar / wine shop in the Príncipe Real neighborhood, go-to industry favorite
• Senhor Uva – Tasty eats and good wine selection wine
• Hotel Chiado – Another rooftop bar boasting more killer views

Best Coffee Shops:

Starting the day on a high note begins with a great cup of coffee—and when it comes to caffeinated beverages, Lisbon’s got a slew of excellent places to choose from. Here are some of the top places where our team enjoyed solid cups of coffee:

• Honest Greens – Massive café by the water – great coffee, lots of healthy snacks
• Magnolia Café – Coffee, brunch, and natural wines
• Copenhagen Coffee Lab & Bakery – Scandinavian-inspired small chain with pastries, sandwiches, and great coffee
• Fábrica Coffee Roasters – Excellent cappuccinos, croissants, and more
• Malabarista Café – Great specialty coffee shop – don’t skip on the cinnamon buns!
• Martinho da Arcada – Note: The coffee here is not so great, but this iconic shop has been open since 1782 – grab an espresso and pastéis de nata and enjoy the plaza-side location

Neighborhoods to Explore:

• Alfama – Quaint, cobblestone streets, great views from the Miradouro
• Bairro Alto – Old houses, tons of bars, nightlife epicenter, lots of street art
• Chiado – Bohemian, sophisticated, great for shopping and coffee
• Principe Real – Great shopping (local designers, concept stores, antiques, etc), art galleries, and numerous small parks to explore

Where to Stay:

• AlmaLusa Baixa/Chiado – Rated number 1 by Condé Nast Traveller – central, quiet, and impeccably decorated
• Hotel 1908 – Iconic, beautifully designed, conveniently located across the street from Cervejaria Ramiro
• Tandem Palacio Alfama – Great neighborhood, outdoor pool, 24-hour fitness center
• The Editory Riverside Santa Apolónia Hotel – 5-star hotel in an old train station, on-site bar, riverside location

Additional Activities

• Visit the Belém Tower
• Check out the National Tile Museum
• Hitch a ride on an old school tram
• Visit the Time Out Market for a variety of international eats
• Hit the Feira da Ladra Market
• Stroll through Monsanto Park
• Plan an afternoon trip to Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Lisboa-Based Wineries to Visit:

• Regional de Colares Winery (Colares) – A must visit!
• Adega Mae winery, Torres Vedras (Sintra)
• Quinta do Piloto (Palmela)
• Quinta da Bacalhôa (Azeitão)
• Quinta do Gradil (Montejunto)